作者： 發布時間：2018-07-04 關注度：91
Learn about a winemaker in Oregon who is using the ancient technique of amphorae to make wine.
讓我們來認識一位用雙耳陶罐釀酒的俄勒岡釀酒師。
Ever wonder what ancient wines actually tasted like? Scientists have put together many details of how ancient wines were made from studying the ruins of 6000 year-old cellars. A key component of these cellars is the use of earthenware pots called amphora to make wine. Surprisingly enough, there is a producer reinvigorating the process of using amphora in winemaking in a rural suburb of Portland, Oregon.
大家是否好奇古代的葡萄酒喝起來什么味道？通過對6000年前酒窖遺址的研究，科學家們解開了古代釀酒的諸多細節。酒窖遺址的重要部分是使用名為“amphora”的陶土罐釀造葡萄酒。更令人驚訝的是，俄勒岡州波特蘭郊區居然有一位釀酒商正復活這一古老工藝，用雙耳陶罐釀造葡萄酒。
Amphorae, like these Georgian style Qvevri, have been used for a millennia to make wine. A winemaker with a background in pottery is reviving this ancient tradition. photo by Beckham Estate Vineyard?
雙耳陶罐（Amphorae）的風格猶如格魯吉亞的Qvevri陶罐，用于釀酒已有千年的歷史。貝克漢姆莊園葡萄園（Beckham Estate Vineyard）拍攝的照片所示，一位釀酒師正在復興這一古老工藝，而背景正是陶罐。
Andrew Beckham is not your usual deep-pocketed winery owner, in fact, he’s actually a high school pottery teacher. In the early 2000’s Andrew and his wife, Annedria, chose to move out of the city to acquire enough space to build a pottery studio. It was here, that the couple developed a keen interest in wine, planted a few rows of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and started Beckham Estate Vineyard. Andrew had never thought to tie his love for pottery with wine until he came across an article about Elisabetta Foradori, a famous Italian winemaker who started to use amphorae to make wine.
安德魯·貝克漢姆不是大家通常所見的財大氣粗的釀酒廠老板，事實上，他是一位名副其實的高中陶藝老師。2000年初，安德魯和妻子安妮德里亞（Annedria）選擇搬到鄉下，這樣能有足夠的地方建一所陶藝工作室。在這兒，這對夫婦對葡萄酒產生了濃厚興趣，種了幾排霞多麗和黑皮諾，并創立了貝克漢姆莊園葡萄園。安德魯從來沒有想過會把對陶器的熱愛與葡萄酒聯系起來，直到他偶然讀到一篇介紹伊麗莎白?福拉多里(Elisabetta Foradori)的文章，這位著名的意大利釀酒師已經開始用雙耳陶罐釀酒。
“I saw the amphora and thought, I could make that” –Andrew Beckham
安德魯?貝克漢姆介紹說“我看到了雙耳陶罐，心想我也能這么干。”
Over several years, Beckham worked on developing the right amphora shape which involved researching ancient designs including Roman amphora, Spanish Tinaja (terra-cotta storage vessels) and Georgian Qvevri. This is where Beckham has stumbled across some fascinating secrets from the past. For example, his skin-contact Pinot Gris was made in a Roman-styled amphora, which is narrow and pointy. The design of the amphora lets the seeds drop to the bottom and reduces the bitter tannins from the seeds. The result is an intensely colored Pinot Gris, which perhaps mimics the so-called “golden wines” of the Roman empire.
過去幾年，貝克漢姆一直潛心研究羅馬雙耳瓶、西班牙Tinaja赤土儲物陶器和格魯吉亞Qvevri陶罐等古代陶罐的造型，并琢磨出該如何塑造雙耳陶罐的形狀。在摸索過程中，貝克漢姆無意中發現了不少令人著謎的訣竅。比如，狹窄而尖細的羅馬雙耳陶罐適合浸皮工藝釀造灰皮諾葡萄酒。雙耳陶罐的獨特形狀能夠讓葡萄籽沉底，這樣能緩和葡萄籽的苦澀。所釀的灰皮諾葡萄酒色彩更深，或許這與傳說中羅馬帝國的“黃金葡萄酒”類似。
Aging wines in earthenware also showed surprising results. The porosity of the clay increases the oxygen exposure to wines while they age. Oxygen accelerates the tertiary flavor development which includes softening tannins and increasing aromas of nuts, baked fruit, and chocolate. After experimenting with Pinot Noir aged in oak vs amphora, Beckham suggested that the increased levels of dissolved oxygen in the amphora wines meant they are ready in about half the time of the wines aged in oak.
葡萄酒在陶器中陳年也能產生出人意料的結果。粘土的空隙能讓葡萄酒在陳年過程中接觸更多氧氣，這能促進第三類風味物質的形成，比如單寧更為柔順，而堅果、烘焙水果和巧克力的香氣也更濃郁。通過實驗對比橡木桶和雙耳瓦罐陳釀黑皮諾葡萄酒的效果，貝克漢姆發現雙耳陶罐能增加葡萄酒的溶氧量，這就意味著比橡木桶陳年節省一半的時間。
How do Amphora Wines Taste?
After tasting through Beckham’s wines (which are also naturally produced) we’ve come to realize that Amphorae do show fantastic potential (especially for those of us who yearn for purity of fruit and subtlety).
雙耳陶罐葡萄酒的滋味如何？
品嘗完貝克漢姆釀造的葡萄酒（同樣也是天然釀造）之后，我們逐漸認識到雙耳陶罐確實蘊藏著巨大的潛力（尤其適合追求純正果香和精致口味的挑剔的我們）。
A.D. Beckham Lignum (“wood”) Pinot Noir
A wine fermented in amphora, but aged in wood. This was one of my favorite of the bunch with loads of tart cranberry, forest berry, true cinnamon, anise, tart cherry and tilled soil flavors. Texturally speaking, the wine has high acidity with a long tingly aftertaste that exudes flavors of fresh cherries. I found it to be somewhat unlike other popular Oregon Pinot Noir wines with a lighter body and much more minerality.
安德魯?貝克漢姆橡木桶黑皮諾葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Lignum （“橡木桶”） Pinot Noir）
這款是經過雙耳陶罐發酵、橡木桶陳釀的葡萄酒。它是我最愛的葡萄酒之一，濃濃的酒香中透著酸蔓越莓、森林漿果、錫蘭肉桂、茴香、酸櫻桃和松土的芬芳。從酒體結構上來說，這種葡萄酒酸度高，散發著新鮮櫻桃的果香，余味悠長。我發現它與俄勒岡其他的流行黑皮諾葡萄酒有所不同，那些葡萄酒的酒體略輕、礦物氣息也較濃重。
A.D. Beckham Creta (“clay”)
A wine fermented in amphora and aged in amphora. This wine was the most different of the bunch. It was a hazy ruby color with aromas of plum, dusty raspberry, milk chocolate, cinnamon, cherry, dill, mashed banana and wet paint. The smell was disarming and for an aroma geek, entirely intriguing. Upon tasting the wine, it had slightly more subdued acidity and rich mineral flavors of freshly wetted concrete. The chocolate overtones in the wine managed to smooth out the contrasting aromas and make the wine quite easy to drink.
安德魯·貝克漢姆粘土葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Creta（“黏土”））
這款是在雙耳瓦罐中發酵且陳釀的葡萄酒。它在所有葡萄酒之中鶴立雞群，色澤呈現出朦朧的紅寶石色，散發著李子、多塵的覆盆子、牛奶巧克力、肉桂、櫻桃、蒔蘿、香蕉泥和濕油漆的芬芳。酒香讓人感到心情舒緩，非常引人入勝。入口微酸且柔和，礦物質氣息濃重猶如濕漉漉水泥的味道。淡淡的巧克力風味讓葡萄酒更為柔順，滋味更有層次感，葡萄酒也更誘人。
A.D. Beckham Malbec
A wine fermented in amphora and aged in a combination of amphora and wood. This wine was reductive. When the reduction aromas (reduction has heavy almost sulfur-like aromas) went away, the Malbec burst with flavors of plum, blackberry and chocolate with a medium body (much lighter than most Malbecs), medium plus acidity, and this rustic texture of concrete. I was immediately reminded of highly appreciated Zuccardi “Concreto”, a wine made in concrete eggs. This wine showed potential for amphora as a viable fermentation vessel in modern wines.
安德魯?貝克漢姆馬爾白克葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Malbec）
這款是在雙耳陶罐中發酵，并經過雙耳陶罐和橡木桶混合陳釀的葡萄酒。葡萄酒采用還原法釀制。還原法產生的氣味（還原法產生濃重的硫磺味）散盡后，葡萄酒香氣撲鼻，散發著李子、黑莓和巧克力的濃郁芬芳，中等酒體（比大多數馬爾貝克葡萄酒都要輕得多）、酸度中等偏上并有著水泥的質樸口感。它讓我猛然間想起朱卡迪酒莊(Zuccardi)的“Concreto”葡萄酒，它是一種卵型水泥發酵罐釀造的葡萄酒。雙耳陶罐不僅能提升這種葡萄酒的陳年潛力，也可適合發酵現代葡萄酒。
