作者： 發(fā)布時(shí)間：2019-04-01 關(guān)注度：157
When archaeologists last year found traces of winemaking on 8,000-year-old pottery shards in Georgia, the tiny former Soviet republic claimed the crown as the world’s oldest wine producer.
去年，當(dāng)考古學(xué)家在格魯吉亞8000年歷史的陶器碎片上發(fā)現(xiàn)釀酒痕跡時(shí)，這個(gè)前蘇聯(lián)加盟共和國(guó)宣告自己是世界上最古老的葡萄酒生產(chǎn)國(guó)。
It was an affirmation for many long-standing fans of the country and its winemaking tradition, which is ancient and, at the same time, a grassroots movement. Georgia’s hallmark is white wines that stay in contact with their skins, stalks and pips for months and further ferment in huge clay amphorae (qvevri) buried in the ground. It’s a trend that’s caught on elsewhere in the world, but its deep roots lie in Georgian culture.
這是對(duì)格魯吉亞葡萄酒迷和格魯吉亞傳統(tǒng)來(lái)說(shuō)是一種欣喜。釀酒傳統(tǒng)歷史悠久，同時(shí)也是一場(chǎng)草根運(yùn)動(dòng)。格魯吉亞代表是白葡萄酒，它能與果皮、果梗和果核保持?jǐn)?shù)月的接觸，并在埋在地下的巨大陶罐(qvevri)中進(jìn)一步發(fā)酵。雖然這種方法在其他國(guó)家也開始流行，但起源在于格魯吉亞文化。
“What’s happening now is a revival,” says Alice Feiring, author of For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey Through the World’s Most Ancient Wine Culture. A natural wine advocate, Feiring has long traveled in the country, and her 2016 book—a love letter to Georgian people and traditions—charts the modern (re) discovery of the wine culture and some of the struggles to remain true to its heritage.
《愛酒之旅:世界最古老的葡萄酒文化中的探索》一書的作者Alice Feiring表示:“這是一場(chǎng)復(fù)興運(yùn)動(dòng)。”作為一名天然葡萄酒的倡導(dǎo)者， Feiring長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)一直在格魯吉亞旅行。她在2016年出版的書《給格魯吉亞人民和傳統(tǒng)的情書》記錄了人們對(duì)葡萄酒文化的復(fù)興，以及為保持其傳統(tǒng)而進(jìn)行的努力。
Noel Brockett, director of sales at the Georgian Wine House in Washington, D.C., who attends industry events dressed in a chokha, the traditional long woolen coat adorned with ornamental silver cartridges worn by Georgian men, says wine culture runs deep in the country.
Noel Brockett是華盛頓一家格魯吉亞葡萄酒屋銷售總監(jiān)，他身穿格魯吉亞男子穿的傳統(tǒng)長(zhǎng)羊毛外套chokha參加行業(yè)活動(dòng)，上面有銀質(zhì)裝飾。他說(shuō)，格魯吉亞的葡萄酒文化在這個(gè)國(guó)家根深蒂固。
“There’s something very particular about how Georgians love wine ,” he said. “It’s a little eccentric but then you start looking into it and once you do, you’re truly amazed—it’s such an integral part of the culture and everyday life.”
“格魯吉亞人超級(jí)喜愛葡萄酒。”他說(shuō)，“這聽起來(lái)有點(diǎn)夸張，但當(dāng)你開始研究它時(shí)，你會(huì)真正感到驚訝——它已是文化和日常生活中不可或缺的一部分。”
Traditional winemaking in Georgia has always been a home endeavor, infused with history, religion and mythology, and references dating to the fourth century. An oft-told legend relates how soldiers wove a piece of grapevine into the chain mail protecting their chests, so when they died in battle, a vine sprouted not just from their bodies, but their hearts.
格魯吉亞傳統(tǒng)釀酒業(yè)一直以來(lái)都是一項(xiàng)家庭活動(dòng)，充滿了歷史、宗教和神話色彩，而且可以追溯到四世紀(jì)。一個(gè)流傳已久的故事:士兵們把一根葡萄藤縫進(jìn)鎖在胸前的鏈子里，以保護(hù)自己的胸部，當(dāng)他們陣亡的時(shí)候，葡萄樹就從他們的身體上長(zhǎng)出來(lái)，而且是從他們的內(nèi)心長(zhǎng)出來(lái)。
“Even where we think a culture like France or Italy is so wine-centric, Georgians just take it to a whole different level—much deeper than what we’re exposed,” said Taylor Parsons, an Los-Angeles sommelier, who has visited Georgian wine country three times.
洛杉磯的侍酒師Taylor Parsons曾三次造訪格魯吉亞的葡萄酒之國(guó)，他說(shuō)，“即使相比法國(guó)或意大利這樣的葡萄酒文化濃郁的國(guó)家，格魯吉亞人也把葡萄酒上升到了一個(gè)完全不同的層面—比我們所接觸到的要深刻得多。”
Despite boasting 8,000 vintages, Georgian wines have come onto the world wine map only recently—thanks in part to the amber-wine trend, growing interest in natural wines, and improvements in the vineyard and winery.“Georgia needed to change at the same time that these other things were trending,” says Master of Wine Lisa Granik, who serves as market adviser to Georgia’s National Wine Agency.
盡管格魯吉亞葡萄酒擁有8000年的歷史，但直到最近才進(jìn)入世界葡萄酒版圖，這在一定程度上要?dú)w功于陶罐酒的發(fā)展趨勢(shì)、人們對(duì)天然葡萄酒越來(lái)越感興趣，以及葡萄園和釀酒廠的技術(shù)改進(jìn)。“格魯吉亞同時(shí)需要根據(jù)其他市場(chǎng)趨勢(shì)做出改變。”葡萄酒大師Lisa Granik說(shuō)，她也是格魯吉亞國(guó)家葡萄酒局的市場(chǎng)顧問。
But geopolitical reasons were at play, too. Wedged in between the Caspian and Black seas, winemaking in the small republic suffered under Soviet rule until 2003. Historic plantings were pulled up for the production of cheap factory wines. Civil war and then a Russian embargo on all Georgian wine from 2006 to 2013 further stalled a migration to quality. By the time Georgia’s economy was functioning, “the wine quality was swill—at least what was commercially produced,” says Granik.
但地理政治因素也有一定的影響。這個(gè)位于里海和黑海之間的小共和國(guó)的釀酒業(yè)在2003年之前一直處于蘇聯(lián)的統(tǒng)治之下。為了生產(chǎn)廉價(jià)的工廠葡萄酒，一些歷史悠久的種植園被拔地而起。內(nèi)戰(zhàn)以及2006年至2013年俄羅斯對(duì)格魯吉亞葡萄酒的禁運(yùn)，進(jìn)一步阻礙了葡萄酒向高品質(zhì)葡萄酒的發(fā)展。當(dāng)格魯吉亞經(jīng)濟(jì)開始復(fù)蘇時(shí)，“葡萄酒的質(zhì)量依舊處于工業(yè)生產(chǎn)水平。”Granik說(shuō)。
“What [the government] wanted were modern temporary wines that they could sell in volume and the state supported converting these large cooperatives into modern wineries,” she explained.
她解釋說(shuō):“（政府）想要的是能夠大批量銷售的工業(yè)葡萄酒，國(guó)家支持將這些大型合作社轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)楝F(xiàn)代酒廠。”
Georgia’s wine heritage was revived when people such as John Wurdeman saw its unique place in the world. The American was already living in the country as a ex-pat painter when he was introduced to the local wine by Gela Patalishvili, an eighth-generation winemaker in Kakheti—Georgia’s ground zero for winemaking (nearly three-quarters of the country’s production). Together they founded thePheasant’s Tears winery in 2007, jumpstarting both the revival and preservation of Georgian wine culture.
當(dāng)John Wurdeman等人發(fā)現(xiàn)格魯吉亞葡萄酒在世界上的獨(dú)特地位時(shí)，格魯吉亞葡萄酒開始復(fù)興了。2007年，這位旅格畫家的美國(guó)人與卡赫基產(chǎn)區(qū)的第八代釀酒師Gela Patalishvili共同創(chuàng)建了山雞之淚酒莊（Pheasant’s Tears），推動(dòng)了格魯吉亞葡萄酒文化的復(fù)興和保護(hù)。
Central to that is the qvevri—the large egg-shaped clay vessels in which grapes are fermented with their raw materials, giving rich, structured, tannic wines. The same method for making red wines is used for the whites, yielding amber-colored results. No matter the color, the vessels are sealed and buried in the ground.
其中最重要的因素是陶罐—一種巨大的蛋形粘土容器，葡萄在里面發(fā)酵，釀造出結(jié)構(gòu)豐富、單寧強(qiáng)勁葡萄酒。白葡萄酒的釀造方法與紅葡萄酒相同，生產(chǎn)出琥珀色葡萄酒。無(wú)論什么顏色，容器都是密封的，埋在地下。
Bolstered by well-attended tasting events such as the international RAW Wine Fair, and the Zero Compromise and New Wine festivals held in Tbilisi, Georgian winemakers now range from the traditional to a new wave of ex-pats such as Vincent Jullien and Guillaume Gouerou, two Frenchmen who created Lapati. Here they produce about 12,000 bottles (sourced from an old Soviet factory, as many things in Georgia are adaptively reused) for markets like Japan and Denmark and hip wine bars in the United States. On trend is their “pet-nat” made from the Chinuri grape grown on high-elevation chalky soils, which posed the question of terroir—a concept with which Georgian winemakers are still grappling.
隨著頻繁亮相于品鑒活動(dòng)，如國(guó)際原酒博覽會(huì)和在第比利斯舉行的新酒節(jié)，現(xiàn)在格魯吉亞釀酒師隊(duì)伍從本土擴(kuò)大到外籍人士，如Vincent Jullien 和 Guillaume Gouerou兩個(gè)法國(guó)人創(chuàng)建了Lapati酒莊，年產(chǎn)約1.2萬(wàn)瓶葡萄酒，銷售日本、丹麥和美國(guó)的時(shí)髦酒吧等。受歡迎的是酒莊的“pet-nat”葡萄酒，由生長(zhǎng)在高海拔白堊土上的奇努里葡萄制成，這就引出風(fēng)土的問題，也是格魯吉亞的釀酒師仍在研究的。
“The terroir of Georgia is new—it’s just happening now,” Jullien said. And, as someone who learned winemaking in Beaune, he should know a thing or two about it.
“格魯吉亞的風(fēng)土是一種新的事物-它現(xiàn)在就在形成”，Jullien 在伯恩丘學(xué)習(xí)了釀酒，多多少少對(duì)此有一定的了解。
Woolf says winemakers old and new are still just figuring out the basics, like terroir and which grapes are best suited to their territories. Increasingly, he says, the results are worthy and noticeable.“Georgia is still going through a process where people are trying to improve the vineyards that were in a terrible state, and there’s still a lot of producers are not fully in control of their quality,” he said. “You can tell when you encounter a producer who really understands the viticulture part of the equation and it’s just extraordinary how different that can be.”
葡萄酒作家Simon J. Woolf說(shuō)，新老釀酒師還在研究最基本的問題，比如風(fēng)土，以及哪種葡萄最適合他們的產(chǎn)區(qū)，研究結(jié)果越來(lái)越有價(jià)值和引人注目。他說(shuō):“格魯吉亞仍在經(jīng)歷一個(gè)過(guò)程，人們正在努力改善葡萄園的狀況，這些葡萄園以前狀況比較糟糕，但即使這樣還是有很多生產(chǎn)商不能完全控制它們的質(zhì)量。”“如果生產(chǎn)者對(duì)葡萄園管理有一定的了解將會(huì)有很大的改變。”
